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Brooklyn rewards curiosity. It is the kind of place where a morning can start with 19th-century row houses, slide into a long walk through a waterfront park, detour into a museum, and end with a plate of something memorable in a neighborhood restaurant where nobody is trying too hard. For visitors, that mix is the draw. Brooklyn has enough famous sights to anchor a trip, but the borough’s real character lives in the in-between moments, on side streets, in neighborhood parks